How much does it cost per square foot to remodel or build?

Construction costs can vary by a factor of three or more, depending on features and circumstances. Most residential construction projects range in price from about $70/SF to $200/SF or more, with the average ones being closer to $100/SF. While this information can be helpful as a general guideline it doesn’t really tell you what your project will cost. Many builders will be happy to give you a "ballpark" estimate on your project after spending a few hours with you gathering information about your project. This estimate will be tailored to your specific project, and is much more meaningful.

Do I need a building permit to remodel?

Virtually every construction project other than minor cosmetic work (such as replacing cabinets) requires a building permit. This includes many projects normally considered landscaping, such as decks and fences. Permits are needed even if you are doing the work yourself.

The permit requirement is there to protect the public safety and the homeowner from unsafe or substandard construction. For example, building codes insure that outlets are grounded, bedroom windows are large enough for fire escape, handrails are safe, and smoke detectors are installed. While there is a small fee for inspection services, the delay in getting started is often the biggest problem. Boulder County is currently quoting two to six weeks to issue a permit for remodeling, and the city of Boulder is quoting up to four weeks. Please understand if your contractor can’t start work before the permit is issued.

If you are tempted to ignore the regulation, don’t! And please don’t ask your contractor to do the work without a permit--his license and livelihood are on the line. If your contractor agrees to such an arrangement, he is not professional, and that should make you nervous.

If you’re thinking of doing work yourself without a permit, consider the owner’s disclosure statement that Realtors require sellers to sign upon listing a property. When you sell, you will be asked to sign a legal document disclosing (among other things) if you have knowledge of any work on your home that was done without a permit. If you disclose such work, rest assured the prospective buyer will require you to have the work inspected, and correct any non-conforming work at your expense. You might as well follow the rules up-front, and enjoy knowing your project is done safely and legally.

Is it too late in the year to start construction projects?

We are able to build year-round with only short delays during the worst weather. The biggest problem is with foundations. Once frost is in the ground deeper than a few inches, it is very difficult (but not impossible) to excavate and pour foundations and concrete slabs. When the foundations are in, however, most construction work can proceed with only occasional delay. There is some extra cost associated with lost efficiency, and weather protection, but many clients feel it is worth the cost to meet their schedules.

What can I do to improve my kitchen on a tight budget?

Here are several ideas for sprucing up a kitchen without busting the bank:

• Paint or re-finish the existing cabinets, and replace the hardware. For a slightly higher budget, replace the doors and drawer-fronts with new ones, and re-face the cabinet bodies.
• Add new pullout trays to improve storage efficiency.
• Refrigerators and dishwashers can be painted at an automotive body shop. Many dishwashers have extra panels or reversible color panels hidden behind the front one to allow you to change the color at no cost.
• Add a new light fixture or two to make the room more pleasant and efficient.
• Change the sink and faucet. Stainless steel is durable, classic, and available at reasonable cost.
• Replacing the countertops is fairly easy and inexpensive, especially if you use plastic laminate. In some cases, with the proper technique, it can be applied over the existing tops.
• Do the work in stages. If you can’t manage the whole job at once, replace one or two things for instant gratification. Budget to do something each year and you’ll soon have an all-new kitchen.

How much does it cost per square foot to build an addition on a house?

Cost really depends on many variables. Among these are size, level of finish, number of stories, ease of access, type of room, and complexity of tie-in with the existing house.

In general, the larger the project, the less it costs per square foot, because there is an economy of scale—the first foot costs the most. Likewise, it us usually cheaper to build on two levels instead of one, assuming the square footage is the same, because the roof, excavation, and foundation are only about half as large. And, of course, unfinished garages cost less to build than kitchens and master bathrooms. But, the garage is not free. And this is an important point, because some architects overlook that fact when they calculate costs on a per-foot basis, counting only “finished livable” footage in their cost calculations.

What you really want to know is what your project will cost. Most contractors can give reasonable ballpark estimates once they understand enough about the project. After an architect has developed plans, then you can ask contractors to bid on the same job and give you an exact price.

We’re going to build a new house this year, and would like to supply some of the materials in the house to save money. Will contractors let us do this?

Many contractors are willing to negotiate such an arrangement within reason—if you accept responsibility for the installation of the items you supply, and the project schedule is not impacted by late arrival or installation problems.

Builders and subcontractors are naturally reluctant to be responsible for installing expensive items for which they’ve made no profit. In many cases, the small profit from installation alone is not enough to warrant the risk of damage and warranty responsibility. The risk of schedule delays is significant, also, because time is money—for the contractor, and the homeowner.

A more important consideration is the division of responsibility. If a product supplied by the homeowner fails to perform—such as floor tile that cracks—it can be difficult to determine whether it was the product or the installation that was defective. By having the same company supply and install the product, finger-pointing is eliminated, because the same party is responsible for both material and installation. This peace of mind is probably worth the contractor’s markup on the material.

The fee our building contractor charges for his work includes a percentage to cover overhead and profit. What is overhead, and is this legitimate?

Overhead is the operational expense of running a business that is not directly attributable to your specific project. This would include utilities, rent, insurance, taxes, bookkeeper, truck payments, and the like. All these expenses must be paid just to stay in business. According to industry expert Steve Maltzman of Builder Accounting Services in Redlands, California, who authored a national study for the National Association of Home Builders, the average overhead for construction companies, is 21% of revenue.

After the labor, material and overhead expenses are paid, the rest is profit. Profit is the money available to invest back into the business, share with employees, and be taxed on. If your contractor doesn’t make any, he won’t be in business to finish your job, take care of warranty issues, or build your next project.

It sounds like your contractor works on a Time and Material basis, where he is reimbursed for his direct expenses such as labor, subcontracts and materials for your job, then a fee to allow for overhead and profit. This is a growing trend in construction, because clients know exactly what their money is going for, and get what they pay for.

Do you need a permit to remodel a kitchen? How long does it take to get a permit?

The answer depends on which jurisdiction your home is located in. In general, all jurisdictions require permits for any jobs involving structural, electrical, plumbing, heating, or framing changes, among others. If you are simply changing the cabinets, appliances, or finishes, you probably don’t need a permit. On the other hand, if you are moving walls, electrical outlets, or gas lines, you definitely need a permit. The safest thing to do is contact your local building department, describe the work, and ask about their permit policy.

Don’t be afraid of getting a permit. It will protect you and your investment by insuring that all work is done according to national quality standards and safety codes. Also, upon selling the home, you will be required to disclose your knowledge of any violations of building or zoning regulations.

The time required to secure a permit varies widely, from a week to eight weeks or more.

My contractor included “allowances” in our contract for appliances, floor coverings, etc. Can you explain how an allowance works?

Your builder followed the common practice of using an “allowance” as a budget placeholder for certain finish materials not specified in the contract documents. In other words, you are “allowed” to spend a certain amount without adjusting your cost of the house. If the allowances are in-line with your taste and budget, there will be small ramifications to the budget. If the allowances are much less than you spend for those items, you will be required to pay the difference. Likewise, if you spend less, you should receive a credit.

In a competitive bidding situation, contractors will sometimes use low allowances in order to lower their bid, expecting to make up the difference when the customer makes his or her selections. Most contractors use reasonable allowances, in-line with the overall quality of the house. Before you go shopping, you’ll want to be clear about what the exact allowances are, and what your costs will be if you spend a different amount.

When is a good time to start a large addition?

Our weather is usually mild enough to allow construction throughout the fall and winter without serious problems. In past years, we have begun many large projects in October and November without significant problems. Ideally, if you can get the shell of the structure up and "dried-in" before mid-December, the remaining exterior work can dodge the storms, and the interior work can proceed unimpeded. If the roof must be removed, it is often easier to protect the house from snow than from spring rains, since snow can be removed before melting.

Timing, however, is crucial. If a surprise storm brings a foot of wet snow or a week of sub-zero temperatures just after the basement or crawl space is excavated, you may incur costly delays or remedies in order to form and pour the foundation. On the other hand, the same storm an hour after the foundation is poured may be nothing more than a minor inconvenience.

Any increase in cost associated with weather protection or lost efficiency could easily be offset by the advantage of finishing the project on schedule, instead of delaying for a spring start.

What are the roles of the architect, general contractor and the subcontractor?

The architect or designer is responsible for creating a plan that meets the needs and constraints of the homeowner.

The general contractor is responsible for implementing the plan. He oversees all work to complete the project. He must work closely with the homeowner and the architect.

The contractor generally has employees and that work for him on a daily basis, but then for some areas of the job will hire subcontractors. Subcontractors are independent contractors who are paid just for the work they perform at the time they perform it. They carry their own insurance and are not employed by the contractor.

What are the hazards of lead-based paint?

Many homes built prior to 1978 contain some lead in the paint. Prior to 1950, almost half of all paint contained large amounts of lead. In 1978, the Consumer Product Safety Commission banned the use of lead in paint for residential application. Lead was most common and concentrated in the type of paint used on wood trim, such as windows, doors, baseboards, and door and window casing. It's worth noting that paint is not the only source of this poison in our diet. Until recently, lead also was also present in gasoline and the solder used in copper water piping.

Lead-based paint that is in good condition is not usually hazardous. The real danger comes from ingesting or inhaling dust or paint chips containing lead. You can get lead in your body if you inhale dust from sanding or disturbing painted surfaces, eating chips of contaminated paint, inhaling fumes from paint that has been heated with a torch, or putting hands or other objects covered with lead dust in your mouth.

Babies and small children are most as risk of ingesting lead paint dust or chips, and are also most susceptible to poisoning. This is because their growing bodies absorb lead more readily, and their nervous systems are more sensitive to lead. Children with lead poisoning can suffer headaches, slowed growth, damage to their nervous system, hearing problems, and learning difficulties. Symptoms in adults include high blood pressure, difficulties with pregnancy, nerve disorders, reproductive problems, memory and concentration problems.

The only way to know if you have problems with lead in your home is to have a lead risk assessment performed by a trained professional. While consumer test kits are widely available, they are not always accurate, and their results can be hard to interpret. If testing discovers a significant lead risk, hire a person trained in lead abatement to remove the hazard. An unqualified person may actually make the problem worse by creating dust and spreading it around.

As a temporary measure, you can reduce exposure to lead by cleaning floors, window sills and other surfaces weekly with a mop or sponge and warm water with a general purpose cleaner. Keep children's play areas especially clean, and keep children from chewing on painted window sills or wood trim. Clean or remove shoes before entering the home to avoid tracking lead indoors. Lead can contaminate the soil near the house and enter on the shoes, or be ingested by children. Wash children's hands frequently, especially before meals, and wash their toys, pacifiers and stuffed animals frequently.

There are ways to remove the lead from the home. Schumann Construction, Inc. is certified by the EPA to perform lead abatement. Please call us for more information.

If you suspect you or your family has been exposed to lead, a simple blood test can determine the level of lead in your body. These tests are inexpensive and available from many clinics. Ask your doctor. Tests are especially important for smaller children, aged 6 months to one year.

For more information about lead, you can call the Lead Information Clearinghouse at 1-800-424-Lead, or the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-LEAD-FYI. Request the free pamphlet entitled "Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home", pamphlet # EPA 747-K-94-001. Information is available on the internet at http://www.epa.gov/iaq/lead.html.

We've heard about radiant floor heating, and wonder if it would be a good idea for our whole-house remodeling project.

Cons:

• Radiant heat can be more expensive to install-as much as 20-50% or more.
• Radiant heat does not provide ductwork for use in air conditioning or humidification.
• If your home currently has a forced-air furnace, you will need to replace it with a boiler.
• Radiant floor heat can cause excessive shrinkage of wood floors due to increased drying of the floor caused by the heat.
• Radiant heat responds very slowly to changes in thermostat settings, and is not generally compatible with set-back thermostats, or frequent adjustments.

Pros:

• Radiant heat tends to be more comfortable, because warm floors keep your feet warm.
• Energy costs can be as much as 20-30 lower than conventional forced-air heat.
• It is easier to maintain healthy humidity levels with radiant heat
• Homes stay cleaner without the furnace blower distributing dust throughout the house.
• Radiant heat is quieter than forced air because there are no blowers.
• Radiant heat is more even and less drafty.
• There are no heat registers or cold-air returns to disrupt furniture placement or wall surfaces.
• Radiant heat is easily zoned to allow each room or area to have it's own thermostatic control.

Our remodeling contractor has included the cost of a portable toilet at $80 per month in his bid. Is this standard practice? It seems unreasonable.

Contractors are required to make toilet facilities available to workers. $80 per month is about the going rate, but if you have a toilet you can make available, you will save considerable money. Please don't ask the workers to use the gas station down the street. It's not fair to the workers or the station owner. Show the workers a little respect, and they will return the favor.